Essential oils are highly volatile concentrated aromatic
extracted from flowers, fruits (peels), grasses, leaves, seeds, roots or
hard-wood of a plant through distillation, expression or solvent extraction.
Distilled aromatic plant oils are considered pure essential
oils and are extracted. Large vats are filled with plants material which is
steamed at a high pressure. The steam and essential oil vapor is then cooled,
condensed to liquid and collected. Expression is another method of extraction.
Most citrus oils are simply cold-pressed (squeezed). Lemon, orange, grapefruit,
mandarin, tangerine and bergamot are the oils obtained this way.
Flowers or delicate-smelling plant materials are solvent
extracted. This is an expensive and time consuming process in which solvents
such benzene, butane, alcohol and waxes are used. Tonners of flowers are macerated
(infused) in the solvent till they become saturated with the fragrance (of the
plant material). Then they are centrifuged to separate the oil and wax from the
solvent. The product of this process is called a ‘concrete’. This concrete is
then mixed with alcohol which is then distilled in a vacuum at low pressure to
obtain an ‘absolute’ e.g... Rose absolute, jasmine absolute etc…
Macerated or infused oils are also used in aromatherapy, and
are considered as carrier or base oils. This method of greeting essential oils
is an ancient and very fruitful way. A vegetable base oils has a plant material
added, and is heated or left in the sun for the few days till the plant
material turns brown and has no freshness left. Then, fresh plant material is
again introduced, till the essential constituents are absorbed by the vegetable
and the smell is strong enough. Ashwagandha, Lotus, Calendula, Hibiscus,
Carrot, St John’s worth, Lime blossom, Melissa, Mullein flower are a few infused
oils. When using them in blend, We use 10% to 30% of an infused oil with another
carrier oil, and the mixture is further blended with essential oils or used by
itself.
Essential oils are made of synthetic aromatic chemicals to
get the fragrance of a particular plant material. These are called reconstitutes
oils (RCOs) and are manufactured for use in modern perfumeries and cosmetics.
The reconstituted oils have little or no therapeutic values and never used by
an aroma therapist, many synthetic essential oils are considered toxic and do
more damage to the skin then good. It is very important to buy essential oils
from a reputed supplier for quality to be assured.
Vegetable oils and base oils are also known as carrier oils
or fixed oils and are used for dilution in aromatherapy. Base oils are obtained
through cold-pressed crushing to express the oil. These oils have rich color
and a characteristic aroma and high content of vitamins and minerals. Fixed
oils are a compound of glycerol and fatty acid. Unlike essential oils, Vegetable
oils are greasy and do not evaporate and leave behind an oily stain on cloth or
paper. Refined vegetable oils have complicated process of extraction that involves
heat. The color is bleached; natural color and odor are removed, causing
destruction to the vitamin and enzyme contents in the oil. The use of only
cold-pressed carrier oils in aromatherapy is therefore recommended.
Base oils are of two types: Light oil, which is easily
absorbed by the skin and which contain a major proportion of a massage oil mix,
heavy oils, which are difficult to be absorbed by the skin and are blended with
light carrier oil to the tune of 10% to 30% due to their thick texture of cost.
Lastly, we also use macerated or infused oils as carrier oils, as mentioned
earlier. But the choice of the base oil, or blend of base oils to be used, in a matter of personal
preference or therapeutic needs.
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